Valle de Morales

Important Mountains

San Francisco

Information

  • Height: 4,345m
  • First ascent: Otto Pfenninger and Sebastián Krückel, 1931
  • Physical difficulty: 5
  • Technical difficulty: 4
  • Exposure: 5
  • Time required: 4 to 5 days
  • Suitable season: October to March
  • Ski mountaineering: possible up to the base
  • Summer temperatures: Feels like -10 ° C to 15 ° C
  • Winter temperatures: Feels like -25 ° C to 10 ° C

The approach starts in Baños Morales, where the park entrance to the natural monument El Morado is located. At the park entrance take the marked trail up to the end of the valley, and there, set up the tent. The next day, the ascent starts on the glacier on the left side. From here, you will see the hanging glacier you have to climb, then turn left and walk alongside the rocks. The inclination increases from 20° to about 40°. Pretty far up, walk a right traverse on the snow field. Here the inclination is about 30°. It is advisable to bivouac in the middle of the snow field, because from this point on, the ascent becomes more difficult. The ascent continues on a difficult trail on the right hand side with an inclination of approximately 70°, which ends with a rock climb of difficulty V. Up there you will reach a very exposed ridge that leads to the summit after about 200 meters. The descent is along the same route.

Equipment

  • tent or bivouac gear
  • helmet
  • ropes
  • screws, snow pickets
  • carabiners
  • technical ice axe
  • crampons
  • ice screws

Notes

Caution, avalanche hazard!
Water is available only up to base camp.
Get the required permits at the park entrance and talk to the park rangers.
There have been numerous accidents in the past because of ill-prepared climbers.

Chacaya

Information

  • Height: 2,839m
  • First ascent: 
  • Physical difficulty: 3
  • Technical difficulty: 3
  • Exposure: 3
  • Duración: 1 to 2 days
  • Suitable season: all year
  • Ski mountaineering: possible up to the base
  • Summer temperatures: Feels like -10° C to 15° C
  • Winter temperatures: Feels like -20° C to 10° C

The hike starts in the village Baños Morales at the park entrance to the natural monument El Morado. After the checks by the national forest authority CONAF, follow the well-marked path up to the wetlands Aguas Panimávida. Now climb the east facing slope on the left, which has an inclination of about 20° and leads to the above located gully. This part of the gully slopes about 30° and ends on a peak trail. Once you have reached the top, proceed south for about 30 minutes, the summit is easily accessible. The descent is along the same route.

Equipment

  • camping gear
  • crampons and ice axes in winter

Notes

It is important to get the required permits at the park entrance and talk to the park rangers. There have been numerous accidents in the past because of ill-prepared climbers. Before starting the visit, ask for camping possibilities inside the park. The entrance fee is $ 2,500 per person. Fill water containers at the park entrance.